BEFORE

AFTER

Below are a few specific tools I recalled using the most.

• Spring Compressor (Strut Style)
• 15mm Deep Well Socket
• 13mm Socket
• 13mm Wrench
• Hammer
• Torx T50 Bit
• Pliers

Note:  During much of this disassembly you need not worry of anything under any sort of pressure or fear that something's going to take your head off.  The Strut/Shock is removed from the car intact spring and all,  so don't feel like I did the first time I did this that every bolt you turn is going to result in something violently letting go.   Not going to happen.

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Remove the (4) Strut Bolts.   (2) require the 15mm Deep Socket and (2) require a 13 mm Socket.

Image 2

Hold the top nut with your 13mm wrench while you remove the bottom bolt with your 13mm Socket.   Air tools really come in handy here.  Once you remove the bushings just set them aside for now.  Keep this procedure in mind because you'll be doing the exact same thing on the rear when we do the back springs.

Image 3

Remove the carter pin from the tie rod and unscrew the castle nut until it's just about to come off the last few threads.   With the castle nut still on, strike the top a few times with a hammer as shown in the picture to loosen this ball joint..  You'll know when it's lose and may remove the castle nut and lower the tie rod down and out of the way.

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Remove the carter pin from the upper control A-arm ball joint and follow the same procedure you did for the Tie Rod.  (Images 6 - 9)  When the joint is loose you'll want to pull down on the pivoting A-arm to relieve a little tension so you can remove the castle nut and release this assembly as shown.  Just swing everything towards the rear of the car to prevent stressing the brake line.  You'll have plenty of slack in this position and will not harm the lines. 

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The only thing at this point holding the entire strut assembly in is the two lower bolts holding the bottom of the strut/shock in place.  Remove these two bolts.  15mm on top and 13mm on the bottom.  (Image 10)

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Note:  The spring is under some slight pressure but in my opinion not enough to require the use of a spring compressor.   With that said my experiences may not be the same for you, so you might want to consider using the spring compressor as a precaution anyway.   If by any chance you wish to pass on the spring compressor at this point all I can say is make sure the spring/strut is either in the center of your workbench or just lay it out in the open on the ground so that when you remove the retainer the slight energy of the spring will not have a wall or something to launch from..    After this bolt is removed you can remove the spring and insert your new spring or choose to cut your stock spring.   

 More Details on cutting stock springs below.

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Now that you have the shock orientation lined up with the holes in the lower A-arm you can remove the spring compressor and re-assemble everything back together.  

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Now that you've successfully gotten the passenger side spring install under your belt it's time to do the driver's side.   Everything is pretty much the same with the exception of (2) torx bolts (Image 18) on top of the strut tower.  You'll need to use your Torx T50 bit to remove them but before you can do that you'll need to move the master cylinder.   Don't worry were not disconnecting any lines here.  Simply unbolt the (2) 15mm bolts (Image 19) that attaches the MC to the Brake Booster.   Take both hands and slowly pull back to clear the studs and lift upward.   As soon as the MC clears the studs you'll have the room you need to unscrew those (2) Torx bolts.    

Proceeding these (2) Torx bolts just follow the same procedures you did above for the passenger side.  It's all the same from here on out.

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The rear springs are so easy to install it literally took me 15mins to do both sides.   You do not need to remove the wheels.  The only tools you'll  need is a 21mm Socket , 13mm Socket and a 13mm Wrench.

Jack up the back of your car a good bit and secure both sides with jack stands.   Under the rear of the car place a floor jack or equivalent directly under the differential and jack it up about an inch or two.  Remove the 21mm nut that secures the bottom of the shock (Image 20).  Push the shock straight back towards the front of the car to disengage it from it's mount.

The rear Sway bar must be disconnected now.  Reach up over the axle and locate the 13mm Nut with your 13mm wrench.  Using your 13mm Ratchet on the bottom bolt.   (Recall doing the fronts? )

After both sides are complete you can lower the floor jack which will drop the axle low enough so that you can simply reach in and swap out the rear springs.   Don't forget the big rubber isolators that sit  on the top of the rear springs when you put the new ones in.

Image 20

Cutting the Stock Springs

I am by no means an expert on cutting the stock springs.  In fact my first attempt is what led me to purchasing these Hypercoils and creating this install document.   I can at least tell you what I learned NOT TO DO. 

First of all you can actually save yourself some money and get a near stock ride by cutting your stock springs.   This works out great for those who just want to knock a little of that ole fender gap out.   The trick in my humble opinion is not cutting too much.  My first attempt I removed approx. 1 and 3/4 coils which I personally feel is way too much.  The pics below were taken with the stock springs CUT or should I say HACKED!    Believe it or not I've  gotten a lot of compliments on it being that low but personally I didn't like the ride very much.  It was very stiff feeling as if I were riding on the bumpstops.

On with the show:  After talking to a few people who have successfully cut their springs on a 98+ F-body and knowing how much I cut on mine I would offer this simple rule.   Start small because you can always remove more spring but you can't put it back on.   Knowing what amount I removed I would probably recommend you start with 1 coil after the dead coil.    The dead coil consists of almost a half coil.  In case your wondering what the dead coil is, basically it's a section of the beginning coil that remains constant and doesn't curve downward so if you were to consider this part of the spring and cut say 1 coil out you'd only be actually removing  1/2 a coil.   Factoring in this dead coil you might want to remove 1.25 coil INCLUDING the dead coil.  

Rear Springs:  Remove 1.25 coil past the dead coil.  When you pull the stock rear springs out you'll notice one end looks like a pig tail and sits up on a perch on top of the axle.   You DO NOT want to cut the pigtail end.

Tip:  You need a cutoff wheel in order to cut the springs..   You cannot use a torch! 

Well that's it folks.  I certainly hope I've given you some inspiration at taking on this task yourself or at least with a couple buddies.   There's bound to be a few questions you might have or minor details you don't quite understand.  If so just email me at the address below and I'll help out best I can.   I would highly recommend you get your car a proper alignment soon after this job is complete.

By the way.  The Hypercoils perform extremely well and ride very nicely.  If the stock ride is a 10 then the Hypercoils are about an 8.5.

bdavis411@msn.com