Why not visit my personal woodworking shop?

Without getting into brand names for the moment, let's just say that the best router for a table is a fixed base router.  It is easier to adjust (unless you have a router lift of some kind on a plunge router and then I contend the fixed and plunge are about the same).

The reason so many folks use a plunge router in their table is that it is their "big" router.  They  had some kind of small fixed base router and when they upgraded and added another router to their arsenal, they wanted one that would do everything.  That would be the plunge router.  Since they had a large high powered plunge router, they had no choice really but to put that one in the table.  Still not a good idea.

The fixed base can many times have the motor actually removed for bit changing.  If not, then having a plate that rests in the top of the router table and of sufficient size to allow a person to bring the router up through the top, is the best way to get at changing the bit.  Yes, there are some tables that have removable  "rings" of sufficient size to allow a special wrench to go down and change the bit from the top, but these are not universal by any means.

One tip - if you are stuck with a big plunge router to use in the router table, then at least remove the springs before you try to use it there.  This makes it almost bearable to use the plunge router in the router table.  Otherwise, you will find yourself cursing every time you change the height of the bit.

Now to brand and model - without endorsing these models, all I can say is that from many articles in various publications, it seems to me that most folks favor the PC 7518 Fixed  Base Router for the table.  I do too, but recently Milwaukee has a competing router that just might take the cake for the router table.  This router is designated 5625-20.  It boasts 3.5 HP and can be adjusted  from above the table with the included wrench.  Lastly, while I don't care for a plunge router in a router table, the Hitachi M12V is hard to ignore with it power (3.25HP) and price (usually  $200 or less).  It can be a bit cumbersome to use in a router table.   Please remove the springs (see above) and get a fine adjustment "knob" for it or use it with a lift of some kind which you  can almost pay for with the savings!

Mr. Router - Pat Warner  - agrees with me on most of this or more likely I agree with him!  Check out his great web site.

Copyright 2001, 2002, 2003 - Jim Stafford - Developer and teacher of the Routercraft series of classes.